When this happens, it’s usually caused by one of three problems: camera shake, focus issues, or general softness. There’s nothing worse than the feeling of taking the perfect photo, rushing home, opening it up on your computer… and realizing that it’s blurry at 100%. Three kinds of sharpening for a perfect photo ![]() Create tack-sharp images even when you’re shooting handheld, at night, or with a shallow depth of field. If I do decide to adjust noise and sharpening (which is rare) I just use Nik dfine and sharpening, which are sufficient for me.Create tack-sharp images with no artifacts or halos.Sharpen AI is the first sharpening and shake reduction software that can tell the difference between real detail and noise. Frees up my mind for other modifications I can do using Nik Collection (specifically Viveza and Color/Silver Efex Pro). I find it sufficient to run an image through DeepPrime, no matter what the ISO, then simply not think about noise and sharpening anymore. I actually never use the Topaz products anymore and will not be upgrading them. Same with the image not being tack sharp in the end. However, the noise that was left was not objectionable, and in fact in my opinion added “character” to the image (like film grain). I took it through DeepPrime and it got rid of most of the digital noise, but still left some noise, as there was a lot. I recently took a 10,000 ISO (on Nikon D7500) image of a bird, which of course had lots of noise. However, I have discovered lately that I was obsessing too much over having sharp clean images. I bought the Topaz suite last Black Friday, and deNoise and Sharpen do what they advertise. I have come full circle when it comes to sharpening and getting rid of noise. I think he would have loved digital photography, and I think he would have loved PhotoLab4. I love reading what Joanna writes here, and I love reading the stories about Ansel Adams way back when, back when he was just an excellent photographer, not a “god”. They both work at capturing a “perfect photo” from the very beginning. When I think of what I consider “professional photography”, a large format camera on a tripod is what comes to my mind, thinking of Ansel Adams, and more lately Joanna Carter. Fuji also has the best viewfinder of any camera I have ever owned, at least for the way I use it. I don’t use flash on my Leica, and my ability to focus using the rangefinder, or the Visoflex, or the “Live View” is reasonably good, but not as good as the Fuji. The Fuji autofocus can be told to look for a “right eye” and focus there, and the Fuji’s built in flash makes people look great. On the other hand, for “people pictures” the Fuji has options the Leica will never have, and seems to produce the best people photos of any camera I have ever owned. As a “walkabout” camera, the Fuji X100f is perfect for times I don’t want to carry the larger Leica - but I still own a collapsible Summicron, but the reality is my very old 35mm Summilux is similar in size, and I believe it is much sharper than what I can do with the Fuji. I could always buy a Leica Q, but that’s many thousands of dollars for a larger “small camera”, and the Fuji is similar in many ways to the Leica Q. Who knows, if I ever really need more from the file, perhaps by then DxO will have started to support the X-Trans sensor, or I can edit the ‘raw’ file in my Open Source DarkTable app. I think my best option for when I shoot with the Fuji, is to shoot RAW+JPG, then do as you suggest, and work with the ‘TIF’ file. I can post all the images here if anyone wants to take a go at it. ![]() This time I got an image that a rather liked! By an hour later, I had tried again, but told Topaz Sharpen AI to use the “soft image” tool, not the “motion blur” which I found I had used the first time. ![]() It did work though, just as you describe! Unfortunately, while the software did make the body look good, it made the “scales” on top look awful. I purchased my trial version of Topaz Sharpen AI (to get rid of the watermark) and tried what you suggested, not expecting it to work. (Note to self, use burst mode and capture several, to give me a selection of images to choose from.)Īnyway, when I got home, I found an interesting image, with blurred feet (which looked good!), and a blurred body (which looked awful). I was expecting that, and panned the camera (Fuji X100f) to my right and captured one image. I got lots of technically “good”, but rather boring photos of the iguana, when it finally decided I was too close, and started scampering off to my right. It moved to a small concrete wall, alongside of Biscayne Bay. ![]() One of them let me gradually get rather close to it. I was walking to a local store yesterday, and saw some large iguanas near Biscayne Bay. Thanks to both of you, I accidentally found that worked just as you say.
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